Ken Logro

I don’t think it’s unusual to hold turning 30 with the necessity of ceremony and ritual. For most of the last 10 years, it had always looked to me like spending a month in Europe. Well, that has turned out to be something I’ve now been doing more or less every year, and so the weight of its appeal has softened into an indulgent privilege from what was then a hallmark of rare occasion. What privilege for it to now be within a realistic set of choices, than a dream to toil for.

The same goes for Japan, but I tend to go there more often because it’s obviously easier to. All this to say, it made little difference whether I spent the ceremony of turning 30 in Japan and Europe—I’ve grown into someone who knows how to spend their time, what pleasures to seek out, what company to keep. I’ve worked hard enough to make “I could always go to Europe” a reality. I chose to go to Japan for practical reasons most of all. Almost anywhere was going to work, but Hokkaido had always been a place I’d admired from afar. The last time I’d written something of rigour and length was a piece set in Hokkaido, somewhere around Furano. The remoteness of it all was something that was easy for me to romanticise. There was only actually going there left to be done.

I’d intended to spend more of the 11 days I’d intended for this trip in the less popular Hakodate, then a couple of days in Sapporo to visit my favourite polar bear. But a week before my trip, an earthquake had struck around northern Japan, and tsunami warnings were abound. So I dropped the idea and decided to simply stay in Sapporo for the whole of the 11 days. I’d done it before in Bangkok, Kyoto, and Copenhagen, and I’ve learned slowly and deeply getting to know a city was my preferred way of travelling.

Recounting the trip to everyone I knew back home just went like me saying versions of “I ate and drank every day.” After the first three to four days, everything had started to blur into a single day of eating and drinking wine and cocktails…and you know what, that was exactly the rest I needed. Uninhibited pleasure

I had most looked forward to the seafood Sapporo was known for, showing up in my first meal no less. Ebi broth ramen and an ebi onigiri I’d turned into a makeshift risotto towards the end of the ramen bowl. Perfect

What a delight it was to have the simple choice of retiring to my hotel room after dinner. I didn’t need to go to a bar simply because I didn’t want to yet. I didn’t need to be on time for midnight for my birthday, because who’s counting? I woke up from a nap some 30 minutes before my 30th, and it was then that I decided to go for a drink.

Airport slash bed hair

The first few hours of my 30s I spent drinking at Bar Pavane for the first of many times in this week. I would later come to fall in love the constellation of bars and restaurants tucked inside the many buildings of Susukino and Odori. Pavane was one of them, and I should say had the best view of all, overlooking a street from the second floor. A small bar with only a few counter seats—if you knew me, you would know this is exactly my style.

** **Martini, always

The next day on my birthday I was pleased to find out that the cherry blossom trees were in full bloom around a stream near my hotel. I had made it a point to dress in my favourite Lemaire jacket, of course

Saint Laurent sunglasses, Lemaire jacket, Uniqlo turtleneck, Studio Nicholson trousers, Celine boots, Toteme bag

Most excited about the kaisendon this trip. The crab soup wasn’t something to scoff at either

Birthday lucked and found the Auralee shirt I’ve had my eyes on

Birthday dinner at French Panda. Thank you Micah for the tip

My indulgence this trip in a nutshell

Sweetest Mama-san and her jazz band who gave me a birthday song

Best kaisendon

One other highlight was finally meeting my favourite polar bear Lila. I’ve been really invested in a couple of polar bears in Japan for the past few years—Lila in particular has my heart. I went to Maruyama Zoo the first time and didn’t see her, but the second time she really put on a show for everyone!

Excellent meal and wine selection at gaucher. The chef didn’t speak English but luckily had trained in France and we were able to speak in French for a while. Couple-run restaurants are the best

Best one from Wineman this trip. Upon closer review, this was a vintage I’d already had and loved from Kyoto last year! I really know what I want, huh

Asami-san

Matsuriya was an absolute highlight of the trip. Local recommendations feel so good to acquire and experience: it feels so right and true. I had come into Sapporo blind, also having difficulty finding recommendations online. But discovering my own kind of Sapporo—making it my own—made everything all the more enjoyable. I wouldn’t have had it any other way, and it’s inspired me how to travel better in the future.

Gyokusuien was another thing I discovered on my own, and was a place that got me some compliments from the local friends I’ve made on the trip once I recounted my visit to them. Koshiro-san was fluent in English so it was easy to get recommendations. I’m writing this blog drinking their hojicha, which was excellent paired with their soft cream matcha parfait.

Suginome was another highlight—their crab course is a must for seafood lovers like me. The staff were kind enough to even give me a tour of the years-old house the restaurant was in, plenty of private rooms with the most beautiful motifs and even Ainu craft.

Kibori kuma everywhere!

My favourite haul of the trip was in fact these ceramics from Licht. Akiko-san was gracious and so warm with helping me get the pieces I needed. I’ve never been so in love with objects: the Hironobu Ishikawa kettle and plate combo weren’t intended to be together, but my finding the combination in having both was such a satisfying light bulb moment. Creative shopping!

Back in Wineman, Asami-san had me try this 2020 Pinot Noir from Domaine Takahiko 🤯

There’s something to be said about my palette as of late: beige, browns, greys, tans… I wonder if I’d ever circle back on colour.

C’est tout ! I tried seeing Lila again on the last day but failed to see her. The gold I struck was instead through Chihiro-san, who spoke fluent English, telling me all the Japanese polar bear lore I could have asked for. She was so kind as to even give me the fan merch she made, some keychains of Lila that now come with me and my house keys every time I leave the house.

All in all it was an indulgent, if not boring trip. But I loved every second of it. Most days I wish I’d have gotten up sooner, but I think my sleep inertia isn’t something I should hold against myself, and I didn’t, so I enjoyed every day regardless. After all this, I still really have little else to say about turning 30 other than I think the point of life is to eat and drink and laugh. Whenever I’m too busy living, there’s no time for rumination. I feel good and I’m more than grateful.